Mobile RV Electrical Repair.
Solar & lithium, installed on-site.
No 12V power? Breaker tripping? Batteries dying overnight? Our OEM trained technicians diagnose 12V and 120V systems anywhere in Ontario — and install the solar, lithium and inverter upgrades that keep you off the pedestal.
Sound familiar?
These are the electrical faults we chase down every week across Southern Ontario.
No 12V power anywhere
Dead disconnect switch, blown main fuse, corroded ground, or a converter that stopped charging.
Breaker or GFCI keeps tripping
Real overload or a fault in an outlet, junction box or appliance. We trace it instead of resetting it.
Batteries won't hold a charge
Tired batteries, a failed converter section, or a parasitic draw quietly killing the bank overnight.
Shore power issues
Burnt cord ends, bad pedestal, faulty transfer switch, or reverse polarity at the inlet.
Solar not charging
Controller misconfigured for your battery chemistry, shaded or cracked panel, or an undersized wire run.
Lights dim, pump stutters
Voltage drop from undersized or corroded wiring — common on older trailers and after water damage.
12V DC side — house power
- Load-test the battery bank and check resting voltage after a full charge, not right off the charger.
- Verify converter output at the distribution panel — a healthy converter puts out roughly 13.6V while plugged in.
- Inspect the battery disconnect, main fuse and ground straps; corrosion here mimics a dead battery.
- Hunt parasitic draws with a clamp meter — propane detectors, stereo memory and antenna boosters add up.
- Check for voltage drop at the far end of the rig, where dim lights and a stuttering pump usually show first.
120V AC side — shore & generator
- Test the pedestal and cord ends first — burnt or pitted contacts are the most common shore power failure.
- Confirm correct polarity and a solid ground at the inlet before energizing anything inside the coach.
- Check the automatic transfer switch when generator power works but shore power doesn't (or vice versa).
- Isolate a tripping breaker circuit by circuit instead of resetting it — repeated resets are a fire risk.
- Inspect outlets and junction boxes near known water intrusion; wet terminals corrode and arc.
Built for boondocking
We size the system to your real daily consumption, then install it with proper fusing, cable gauge and sealed roof penetrations.
100W–800W panel arrays, MPPT controllers, roof-safe mounting and sealed cable entries
Battery bank conversion with charger, solar controller and cold-weather charging profiles set correctly
1000W–3000W pure sine inverters, transfer switches, shunt-based battery monitors and DC-DC chargers
Common questions
Why does my RV have no 12V power even though the batteries are charged?
The usual culprits are a tripped battery disconnect, a blown main 12V fuse at the battery or converter, a corroded ground, or a failed converter/charger. A mobile technician can load-test the batteries and trace the 12V distribution panel on-site in about an hour.
Do you do mobile RV electrical repair in Ontario?
Yes. We come to your home, campground, dealership, or storage lot anywhere across Southern Ontario — Toronto, Mississauga, Brampton, Vaughan, Hamilton, Barrie, Oshawa, Kitchener, London and surrounding areas — with a fully equipped service truck.
Why does my RV breaker keep tripping when I plug into shore power?
A repeatedly tripping breaker means a genuine overload or a fault. Common causes are running the air conditioner and a second high-draw appliance on a 30A service, a failing converter, a water-damaged outlet or junction box, or a bad shore power cord or pedestal. Do not keep resetting it — that's how RV fires start.
How much does RV solar installation cost in Ontario?
Cost depends on panel wattage, controller type, battery bank, and how much wiring has to be run through the roof and walls. A modest 200–400W rooftop kit with an MPPT controller is a one-day install; a full off-grid system with lithium and a large inverter takes longer. We quote every job up front and you approve the price before work begins.
How many solar panels do I need to boondock?
Weekend boondockers running lights, a water pump, a fan and device charging are usually comfortable with 200–400W of solar and 100–200Ah of usable battery. If you want to run a residential fridge or an inverter microwave you're looking at 600W or more plus a larger lithium bank. We size the system to your actual daily consumption, not a guess.
Can you upgrade my RV to lithium batteries?
Yes. A lithium (LiFePO4) upgrade is more than a battery swap — your converter/charger, solar controller and sometimes the alternator charging path all need a lithium-compatible profile, and cold-weather charging protection matters in Ontario. We handle the full conversion so the system charges correctly and safely.
Can you install an inverter so I can run 120V appliances off battery?
Yes. We install pure sine wave inverters from 1000W to 3000W, wired either to dedicated outlets or through an automatic transfer switch so selected circuits run off battery when you're unplugged. We size the cabling, fusing and battery bank to the load so nothing overheats.
Is my RV converter or my battery the problem?
If the batteries hold voltage overnight but drop while plugged in, the converter isn't charging. If they fall off quickly under load even after a full charge, the batteries are done. We test both with a load tester and a meter at the converter output, so you only replace the part that actually failed.
Diagnosed on-site, powered back up.
- 01. Call or email — we ask a few smart questions so the right meters, fuses and parts are on the truck.
- 02. OEM trained technician arrives and traces the fault properly instead of guessing at parts.
- 03. Up-front quote, approved repair or upgrade, and a system that's safe to live on.
Have the electrical system tested first.
Hidden wiring damage, a dying converter or a tired battery bank are expensive surprises. Our pre-purchase inspection covers the full 12V and 120V system before you sign.
See pre-purchase inspections